Jolly good - Jodhpur

Next stop was a city called Jodhpur – home of the funny trousers…and a magnificent fort. Jodhpur turned out to be a really good place and a great experience. Also named the Blue City for the once compulsory blue colour of all the flats and houses surrounding the great Meherangah fort...a spectacular site! It looks pretty spectacular!












We found a place that the lonely planet recommended for Omelette's called the Omelette Shop. The guy there has been working there for 30 years and they go through 1200 eggs a day. They did a fantastic cheese masala omelette for about 40pence that came in 2 slices of lightly toasted bread. Most of the best food we've had in India we've found to be the cheapest street food.















We also visited some tribes in the desert. They were part of the Bishnoi tribe and it was a great experience to meet them. The Bishnoi's believe that every living being is sacred, so wont squash bugs or cut down trees and stuff like that. It's customary for the head of the family (we went to visit) to mix up some opium as a welcome. He mixed it up with some water and them pours it into his hand which you have to drink from (not the cleanest by the way) and it tasted awful.

Then we went to visit another family in a nearby village who made us a simple lunch of chapattis in a floor oven, after the woman makes them she throws them onto the cow dung floor before being put onto our plates. Although the meal was again delicious! They also dressed us up...

Next stop on this village safari was a very famous dhurri (rugs) maker in the middle of the desert. Amazingly his designs come straight out of his head and he doesn't even draw them first. It can then take both him and his wife working together between 3 weeks to 4 months to complete them. We bought 2! They're winging their way to Oz as we speak. Felt a bit special as he's the official Dhurri maker for the Maharaja of Jodphur and has also made some for Richard Gere and Greg Chappell (The Indian cricket coach).

Finally whilst in Jodhpur it was Vanessa's birthday...thanks for all the bday emails by the way! Andy got me some Marmite as I'd been craving it for a few weeks, and then the owner of the guesthouse got me a surprise birthday cake, really sweet. They were really friendly throughout and kept referring to us as Maharani and Maharaja.

We were also here for the Hindu festival of Diwali and the Muslim festival of Id and the sounds and lights of the fireworks, candles and string lights as we ate on the rooftop restaurant above our guesthouse were awesome! There wasn't an organised display it was just constant random fireworks flying up from the streets below.

Udaipur, Miss Moneypenny...

Udaipur – This is the most beautiful place I’ve ever seen. It has everything…a lake (with a palatial hotel in the middle of it), a palace that has been resident to ten’s of Maharanas over the years (apparently a Maharana is even better than a Maharaja), camel’s, horses, dogs, elephants and even monkey’s and some of the best sunset’s that I’ve ever seen. All can be seen from one of the many rooftop restaurants and cafes.
















Our first day here we found a small rooftop café (also guesthouse) called Dream Heaven café at the top of some very steep steps and metal staircase. This place lived upto it’s name…you could lay on a bed, sit on cushions or have snacks at the tables and the view was breathtaking. As soon as we sat down we realized that we’d need to spend much more time in Udaipur. Have to mention as well that this city is where Octopussy was filmed and at 7.30pm each night you can watch it in nearly every restaurant in the city! (Yes, we did to – at my request not Vanessa’s)..



The art here is also really amazing. Rajasthan is famous for its small detailed paintings on marble and silk, and of course we bought 2! Throughout our time in Udaipur we met lots of local artists...you really have to have a lot of skill, time and patience to churn out the work they do. Paintings can take months and months! They’re magnificent and have amazing attention to detail. The subject being palatial scenes, hunting and the three animals – Camel, Elephant and Horse.


As my Mum and V will testify I love me sunset’s so I’ve been salivating and sitting on rooftops taking photo’s....

Yesterday, we were taken on a tour around the city palace. It was very grand…also found it interesting how each Maharani had to make their mark on it by building a new wing or new room to commemorate themselves and their victories. We were also taken to royal gardens that were impressively green. It turns out we have also been incredibly lucky! For the past few years none of the lakes in Udaipur have been full of water due to drought (especially the most peaceful and impressive Lake Pichola). We're so glad as it’s this lake that gives the city it’s focus.

From the women (and men) washing their clothes at the side (ghats) and the banging noises made by the washing process to the kids jumping in from the walls and swimming.

This made us want to do exactly the same (until we saw the film on the water – although it must be cleanish as their clothes seem pretty clean) and the rubbish also…

Today, we’ve been out on the lake and had a guy in a shop make some clothes for us (aren’t we posh!). Unfortunately, we leave tomorrow…as we travel to Jodhpur – home of the funny trousers…and a magnificent fort.

Dodgy massage...and a bit of Kathakali

Our last day in Kerala…was interesting! We had our first (and last) Ayurvedic massage. I’m not a fan! I got taken into a backroom of a dark house where I was asked to get completely starkers (the picture showed people wearing a towel!) and sit on an oily plank of wood. This wasn’t a good start. Then I just get rubbed a lot by two guys who on more than one occasion got a bit too close for comfort. The oil didn’t smell too good and overall I’d give the experience about 2 out of 10. Don’t think V was a huge fan either, but she was just happy laughing at me….

In the evening we saw a Kathakali. A traditional dance performance in Kerala. This was much better and very interesting. It takes the dancers and musicians at least 12 years to learn (the proper performances can go on all night – ours was just an hour and a half). Each action and hand movement means something different almost like sign language..and has it’s accompanying drum beat / sound. The make-up took an hour and a half to complete and looked stunning and even more impressive as we learnt about all the different stones that the colours were produced from. After this we completed our Kochi experience with another night on the dock with V bargaining for seafood and then having it freshly cooked. We also met a French lady who we’d met in the Ashram and so shared dinner with her.

The next day was our flight to Mumbai with Kingfisher airlines. They’re a cross between Virgin and Easy Jet. They’re the same people that make the beer and the guy is another branson / Stelios wannabe. However, nice airport, good flight and comfort and definitely much better than any train or bus that we could have taken (ok it was ten times more expensive!). Also, some nice compliments from the lovely Kingfisher stewardesses who didn’t seem to mind that Vanessa was sat next to me ;-) Straight off the flight we got a taxi to Mumbai central bus station (well, parking lot under a flyover) and bargained our way onto an air conditioned coach heading for Udaipur. Although it was 12 hours it went very quickly and was surprisingly comfortable (I think after our mammoth train experience from Goa to Kerala any subsequent traveling has been made to feel like first class!). We arrived in Udaipur at 4.30 in the morning where one guy took us to his guest house..he was in the lonely planet so we went with him and his place turned out to be cheap and reasonable so we’ve stayed there since.

Backwaters of Kerala...

After our mammoth journey down from Goa, Kerala has definitely been worth it. The backwaters lived up to their billing from Lonely Planet and all the TV shows that claimed it to be a place you must see before you pop off. We stayed in a nice guest house where the staff were really friendly and helpful and helped us to organise the next 5 days. http://www.gowriresidence.com/default.html

On the Wednesday we hired their houseboat and were taken along the Keralan backwaters. It was amazing! Very peaceful...as we went through the narrow waters which also helped give an insight into the village life that existed round there. We had the boat to ourselves and stayed overnight along with our own chef and captain. Food was also excellent although they cooked far too much for us. Check out the houseboat!


















We stopped off at a place to see an old church, but this was also where we met a load of kids all asking for 'one pen'. Whenever the kids come upto you in India (apart from in Mumbai - where they cut to the chase and asked you for money) they all come running and shouting 'one pen'. Unfortunately, we didn't have any...we'll know for next time. Some girls followed us down to the church and were jooking and giggling with us along the way and kept giving Vanessa flowers that they'd picked. They were (like all the Indian kids we'd met so far) very cute and very giggly...


















The Thursday was a very different experience. We went to an Ashram where we stayed overnight. (http://www.amritapuri.org/)%20TheThe place was a bit eerie! There were pictures of Amma (The kind of spiritual guru who runs the place) all over and there were some 2000 people living there. It was in the middle of nowhere next to the see but consisited of at least 3 big blocks of flats that seemed very out of place in the middle of the backwaters. Amma wasn't there...sods law... she was in London hugging people!! That's what she's famous for. Apparently she's hugged over 25 million people all over the world. And when she's at the Ashram it's not uncommon to see over 50,000 visitors in a day! Whilst parts of the place are a bit strange and it feels a bit cultish they are doing lots of good work. This part of Kerala was effected by the Tsunami and the people at the Ashram are building 1000 new houses for the people that lost their homes. We helped out for a while the next morning before we left. Their determination and dedication was very admirable...they got up at 6.30am each day to do this and we felt a bit embarrassed and humbled by swanning in and just doing a few hours (although i guess every little helps).

Now, we're still in Kerala but at a town called Cochin where we're staying on an island slightly off it called Fort Cochin. This place is a real contrast to everywhere else we've been. It's peaceful, quiet and pretty clean. We've had dinner on the docks where they catch the fish and sell straight away virtually out os the chinese fishing nets. You then buy and take it down to the outdoor restaurants on the front where they cook it for you.

Last night we went to a ladies house for a cooking class on Keralan cooking where we watched her make chapati's and prawn masala with fried Ochra accompanying it. The food was definitely some of the best we've had so far and the Chapati's were definitely the best!


















Tonight we're off to have a traditional ayurvedic massage and then to watch a Kathakali performance which is a traditional Keralan dance and performance. Then tomorrow we make our way via plane and bus to Rajasthan which everyone we've met so far has been recommending to us!

Goa, Goa, Gone to Kerala

We're finally in Kerala after a 24 hour journey down from Goa...India is so big!! We tried to save money by taking the passenger train down. It cost about 250 Rupees between us compared to taking the express train with a/c which was 1770 rupees. Although it was long hot and hard it was good character building! And you got to meet some Indian people along the way...although it did also involve sleeping with the slightly less desirables on a bench in Mangalore station as we waited for our connecting train that left at 4.15am in the morning to get us into Kerala at 4.30pm.

However, now we're here we;re in a lovely guest house where the people are really friendly and will do anything for you. We've organised our whole week from here..tomorrow we're going out on the backwaters and spending the night on a houseboat with our own sailor and chef. Then oni Thursday night we're going to an Ashram where we get to do meditation, yoga and meet this special Ashram lady that hugs lots of people (Vanessa knows more about it...). Then Friday it's back to the guesthouse before catching the train to Fort Cochin on Saturday that has lots of temples and stunning views.

Our last few days in Goa were nice...the rain disappeared and we went across to a lagoon where we sat in the water and watched the monkeys playing in the trees in the adjacent island...was very cool and relaxing! It was really incredible to see all the cows all over Goa as well...they're everywhere from the beaches to the streets..

Amazingly the belly which I know you've been doubting has been pretty well behaved..no real case of delhi belly or at least nothing worst than I've had in England!! ;-)

India is a real mix of emotions...some days I absolutely hate it and the people, dirt and noise get too much...but sometimes it's the best place on earth. With stunning views, hospitality and friendliness. Maybe it's just me and depends on how much sleep I've had or how I'm feeling.

Bombay Dreams and Bollywood Movies

We ended up doing a lot of sleeping in Dubai..but did get our camera which was good...and also did a desert safari! It was really good...they took us in Landcruisers across the desert...a bit hairy at times, but a good experience.

We've been staying in a bit of a dump of a hotel in Mumbai, which meant got hardly any sleep the first night..however, afater a tiring day yesterday managed to sleep right through to midday today, so not bad in the end. We've just booked a sleeper bus to Goa which leaves at 8pm tonight and takes about 12 hours, but it's got beds in it so hoping it will be fine if we can sleep through.

Mumbai (Bombay) is pretty crowded and dirty. We stayed in Colaba which is where a lot of the travellers go and there was a lot of poverty. Kids on the streets and quite a lot of beggars and people sleeping on the streets. The roads are chaos...one taxi driver joked to me if you can drive here you can drive anywhere in the world. There's no markings or rules it seems...can't count the number of cars we almost 'hit' but they must all be experts at it as I haven't seen a crash yet..which is amazing! An example below...doesn't quite do it justice.
















The first night we got here we got asked to be extras for a Bollywood movie being filmed in a top nightclub the next day. So we got picked up and taken to the place...and it was then a really long day 9am - 10pm so was hard work...we got paid 500rupees each which is about 8 quid. But, it was a good experience and we got to meet a few other travellers and some of the indian guys on the set. Vanessa soon became the supporting actress as she got throust into pretty much every scene behind the two main girls! Check it out below...















Our last day in Mumbai was very pleasant though, as we walked around the city...stopped off in an art gallery and sat on the oval maidan and watched lots of locals play lots of cricket!